66 Auto Color October 2011 - Stud Welders

66 Auto Color E-Newsletter

October 2011

 This month we are focusing on stud welders, from getting the proper electrical connection to getting out an "oil can." We hope you can find this information useful.  To highlight our focus we (of course) are having a sale on the Uni-Spotter 4550 Stud Welder Kit. On sale now for $259.30 (suggested retail $415).   To purcase at sale price, use this link. UniSpotter 4550 Starter Kit 

The Uni-Spotter 4550 Starter Kit Plus

The Uni-Spotter 4550 Starter Kit Plus Is a great entry level kit. This kit features the most powerful welder in a Starter Kit. Use this kit as a base to build a complete Uni-Spotter Stud Pulling System. The 4550 Starter Kit features the Uni-Spotter exclusive “Stud Ease Technology”

Stud Ease holds the welding stud in the welder regardless of the direction the welder is pointed. No longer does the stud fall out of the welder when the welder is pointed in a downward direction. This design feature is exclusive to H&S Autoshot’s Uni-Spotter Stud Welders.

Kit Contents:

4551 Starter Welder: The UPGRADED 4551 Starter welder is the most powerful Starter welder on the market. It is 110 volt and comes with a built in overload relay to protect the transformer from overheating. The trigger is mounted in the handle for easy operation. The 4551 Welder features “Stud Ease Technology”, exclusive to Uni-Spotter.

1001 Flexpert Welding Studs: The 1001 Flexpert Welding Studs are the most popular stud sold. They are 2.2 mm copper coated and have been specially designed for easy welding and easy removal after the pulling is complete. The shafts are strong yet flexible. This is the preferred stud for use with slide hammers.

1004 Stud Welding Tip: The 1004 stud welding tip can be used with all welding studs up to 2.6 mm in diameter. Designed with a Morse Taper for a positive fit with an easy removal.

1016 Deluxe Slide Hammer: The 1016 Deluxe Slide Hammer has been designed with a 4-jaw collet which firmly grips the stud and does not let go till you release it. The “T” Handle gives the operator a comfortable ergonomic grip. The tapered head allows for tapping the panel close to the stud.  

-TECH TIPS-

 Stud Welders

The stud welder is used to weld a small steel pin (stud) to a dent in a steel body panel. Then a slide hammer is used to hammer the stud outward.  A proper electrical connection is essential to get a good weld.  Use of an inferior cord will cause a “cold weld,” causing warping or the pins to have a poor attachment.  If you use an extension cord, it is imperative that it be at least a 14 gauge three-conductor wire and no longer than 25 feet long.  The outlet should be a minimum 15 amps and a dedicated line (don’t have several electrical items pulling electricity off of the same connection). To start, grind the lowest part of the dent to produce a clean bare metal “bright finish.”  The dented area needs to be bare metal, all the paint must be removed around the stud location.  The bare metal spot needs to be at least the size of a quarter, perhaps bigger for good heat conduction.  When the trigger of the stud gun (welder) is squeezed, electric current flows though the stud pin and fuses the stud to the car body. Insert the pin and press firmly for a ½ second to 1 second.  A proper weld will discolor the metal approximately 1/8 to ¼ inch around the stud rivet.  Once this is done, let the metal cool, and then do the dent pulling. To shrink an “oilcan” or low spot on the surface, apply heat with the shrinking tip.  Depress the trigger for ½ second while using a spiral motion, starting on the outside of the low spot moving towards the center.  Next apply a cold compress to shrink the steel back.  To remove a “high spot” on the surface, place tip directly on the top of the spot and heat for ½ second.  If heat does not totally remove the high spot, hammer gently while still warm. For safety, be sure to read your stud welder manual.

This is an electric stud welding gun.

This tool is used to weld a small steel pin (or stud) to a dent in a steel body panel. Then a special pull-hammer is used to hammer the stud outward.

 

These studs are about 1½ inches long. 

To begin, the stud is inserted into the end of the gun.

The outer copper ring is negative and the center copper nipple is positively charged. When the trigger is pulled these metal parts are energized.

Of course, this tool needs to be pushed up against the bare steel for anything to happen.

To use the stud gun, the tip is pressed against the bare steel. When the trigger is squeezed, electric current flows through the tip and fuses the stud to the car body.

The dented area needs to be bare metal... all the paint must be removed around the stud location. The bare metal spot needs to be at least the size of a quarter, perhaps bigger.

Once the stud is attached to the car body, the stud welder gun is pulled away, leaving the metal rod attached to the car.

Some dents can benefit from multiple studs. It's best to install all of the desired studs, let the metal cool, and then do the dent pulling. Since this dent was a long skinny crease about 4 inches long, 4 studs were attached, about an inch apart.

After all the dent pulling is done, cut off the studs with a pair of wire cutters and then use a grinder to grind down the remaining bit of steel.

 steel.

Finishing Touches:

Once the dent had been pounded outward, apply a thin coating of plastic filler (a.k.a. Bondo).
When the filler is hard sand the area smooth and level, then prime and paint the entire area that needs to be repaired.