Miscellaneous Tips for Colder Weather

-TECH TIPS-

 

Miscellaneous reminders for the changing weather:

1. Activators (hardeners) for clear, primer, paint, etc. will not activate below 55°/65° temperature. This depends on the product. Check the tech sheet. Keep the shop and the car at this temperature or above.

2. Large up or down swings in temperature cause condensation, make sure your water filters are working properly and if you haven’t checked your dessicant or filters in a while you may want to do this.

3. When selecting your reducer and activators choose the one for the appropriate temperature at the time you will be spraying, to avoid drying too fast or too slow.

 

If you need more technical assistance on other paint issues check out our blog at http://www.66autocolor.blogspot.com

Customer Pic- Lady Lana

Our Customer photo this month is from a Lady named Lana. This photo is under the hood.  She did this "just for practice". I think you will agree, it is a keeper.

Thanks Lana for the picture.

Thanks to all our customers that have been sending in pictures of their projects. Send your picture to info@66autocolor.com

November 2011 Newsletter

66 Auto Color E-Newsletter

NOVEMBER 2011

●PRODUCT FEATURE●

Here is a product that can do three jobs for the price of one. Saving you money.

U-POL PRIMER FILLER

3 in 1 product:  Direct to Metal

                          High to Medium build primer filler

                          Wet-On-Wet No Sand Sealer

High build gray primer that can be reduced and used as a direct-to-metal high or medium build primer or a wet-on-wet sealer.  $28.67 qt. kit / $76.50 gallon kit 

Buy U-Pol Primer Filler 

Premium Fiberglass Filler
Spreads like a short strand, bridges holes like a long strand. Takes the place of short & long strand fillers. Completely waterproof. Will not sag. Compatible with fiberglass & most plastics. Won’t “Bullseye”. Expands & contracts the same as fiberglass & plastics. Tack free & bleed-through resistant. Superior adhesion. Can be wet or dry sanded and directly top coated in 20 minutes.   $11.59 quart / $37.72 gallon

Buy U-Pol Fibral Fiberglass Filler

  

Customer Pics

Our Customer photo this month is from a Lady named Lana. This photo is under the hood.  She did this "just for practice". I think you will agree, it is a keeper.

Thanks Lana for the picture.

Thanks to all our customers that have been sending in pictures of their projects. Send your picture to info@66autocolor.com.

  

 

-TECH TIPS-

Miscellaneous reminders for the changing weather:

1. Activators (hardeners) for clear, primer, paint, etc. will not activate below 55°/65° temperature. This depends on the product. Check the tech sheet. Keep the shop and the car at this temperature or above.

2. Large up or down swings in temperature cause condensation, make sure your water filters are working properly and if you haven’t checked your dessicant or filters in a while you may want to do this.

3. When selecting your reducer and activators choose the one for the appropriate temperature at the time you will be spraying, to avoid drying too fast or too slow.

If you need more technical assistance on other paint issues check out our blog at http://www.66autocolor.blogspot.com

Thank you so much for your business. Keep sending in those pictures!

Customer Project Pics - Larry's Dragster

We have some more great project pictures from some of our customers.  Larry from Fort Scott, Kanas, sent in the pictures below.  Thanks, Larry, great job!

 

Customer Pics

Thanks to all our customers that have been sending in pictures of their projects.

  

Using A Stud Welder

 Stud Welders

The stud welder is used to weld a small steel pin (stud) to a dent in a steel body panel. Then a slide hammer is used to hammer the stud outward.  A proper electrical connection is essential to get a good weld.  Use of an inferior cord will cause a “cold weld,” causing warping or the pins to have a poor attachment.  If you use an extension cord, it is imperative that it be at least a 14 gauge three-conductor wire and no longer than 25 feet long.  The outlet should be a minimum 15 amps and a dedicated line (don’t have several electrical items pulling electricity off of the same connection). To start, grind the lowest part of the dent to produce a clean bare metal “bright finish.”  The dented area needs to be bare metal, all the paint must be removed around the stud location.  The bare metal spot needs to be at least the size of a quarter, perhaps bigger for good heat conduction.  When the trigger of the stud gun (welder) is squeezed, electric current flows though the stud pin and fuses the stud to the car body. Insert the pin and press firmly for a ½ second to 1 second.  A proper weld will discolor the metal approximately 1/8 to ¼ inch around the stud rivet.  Once this is done, let the metal cool, and then do the dent pulling. To shrink an “oilcan” or low spot on the surface, apply heat with the shrinking tip.  Depress the trigger for ½ second while using a spiral motion, starting on the outside of the low spot moving towards the center.  Next apply a cold compress to shrink the steel back.  To remove a “high spot” on the surface, place tip directly on the top of the spot and heat for ½ second.  If heat does not totally remove the high spot, hammer gently while still warm. For safety, be sure to read your stud welder manual.

 

This is an electric stud welding gun.

This tool is used to weld a small steel pin (or stud) to a dent in a steel body panel. Then a special pull-hammer is used to hammer the stud outward.

 

These studs are about 1½ inches long. 

 

 

To begin, the stud is inserted into the end of the gun.

The outer copper ring is negative and the center copper nipple is positively charged. When the trigger is pulled these metal parts are energized.

Of course, this tool needs to be pushed up against the bare steel for anything to happen.

 

To use the stud gun, the tip is pressed against the bare steel. When the trigger is squeezed, electric current flows through the tip and fuses the stud to the car body.

The dented area needs to be bare metal... all the paint must be removed around the stud location. The bare metal spot needs to be at least the size of a quarter, perhaps bigger.

 

 

Once the stud is attached to the car body, the stud welder gun is pulled away, leaving the metal rod attached to the car.

 

Some dents can benefit from multiple studs. It's best to install all of the desired studs, let the metal cool, and then do the dent pulling. Since this dent was a long skinny crease about 4 inches long, 4 studs were attached, about an inch apart.

 

After all the dent pulling is done, cut off the studs with a pair of wire cutters and then use a grinder to grind down the remaining bit of steel.

 

Finishing Touches:

Once the dent had been pounded outward, apply a thin coating of plastic filler (a.k.a. Bondo).
When the filler is hard sand the area smooth and level, then prime and paint the entire area that needs to be repaired.

 

66 Auto Color October 2011 - Stud Welders

66 Auto Color E-Newsletter

October 2011

 This month we are focusing on stud welders, from getting the proper electrical connection to getting out an "oil can." We hope you can find this information useful.  To highlight our focus we (of course) are having a sale on the Uni-Spotter 4550 Stud Welder Kit. On sale now for $259.30 (suggested retail $415).   To purcase at sale price, use this link. UniSpotter 4550 Starter Kit 

The Uni-Spotter 4550 Starter Kit Plus

The Uni-Spotter 4550 Starter Kit Plus Is a great entry level kit. This kit features the most powerful welder in a Starter Kit. Use this kit as a base to build a complete Uni-Spotter Stud Pulling System. The 4550 Starter Kit features the Uni-Spotter exclusive “Stud Ease Technology”

Stud Ease holds the welding stud in the welder regardless of the direction the welder is pointed. No longer does the stud fall out of the welder when the welder is pointed in a downward direction. This design feature is exclusive to H&S Autoshot’s Uni-Spotter Stud Welders.

Kit Contents:

4551 Starter Welder: The UPGRADED 4551 Starter welder is the most powerful Starter welder on the market. It is 110 volt and comes with a built in overload relay to protect the transformer from overheating. The trigger is mounted in the handle for easy operation. The 4551 Welder features “Stud Ease Technology”, exclusive to Uni-Spotter.

1001 Flexpert Welding Studs: The 1001 Flexpert Welding Studs are the most popular stud sold. They are 2.2 mm copper coated and have been specially designed for easy welding and easy removal after the pulling is complete. The shafts are strong yet flexible. This is the preferred stud for use with slide hammers.

1004 Stud Welding Tip: The 1004 stud welding tip can be used with all welding studs up to 2.6 mm in diameter. Designed with a Morse Taper for a positive fit with an easy removal.

1016 Deluxe Slide Hammer: The 1016 Deluxe Slide Hammer has been designed with a 4-jaw collet which firmly grips the stud and does not let go till you release it. The “T” Handle gives the operator a comfortable ergonomic grip. The tapered head allows for tapping the panel close to the stud.  

-TECH TIPS-

 Stud Welders

The stud welder is used to weld a small steel pin (stud) to a dent in a steel body panel. Then a slide hammer is used to hammer the stud outward.  A proper electrical connection is essential to get a good weld.  Use of an inferior cord will cause a “cold weld,” causing warping or the pins to have a poor attachment.  If you use an extension cord, it is imperative that it be at least a 14 gauge three-conductor wire and no longer than 25 feet long.  The outlet should be a minimum 15 amps and a dedicated line (don’t have several electrical items pulling electricity off of the same connection). To start, grind the lowest part of the dent to produce a clean bare metal “bright finish.”  The dented area needs to be bare metal, all the paint must be removed around the stud location.  The bare metal spot needs to be at least the size of a quarter, perhaps bigger for good heat conduction.  When the trigger of the stud gun (welder) is squeezed, electric current flows though the stud pin and fuses the stud to the car body. Insert the pin and press firmly for a ½ second to 1 second.  A proper weld will discolor the metal approximately 1/8 to ¼ inch around the stud rivet.  Once this is done, let the metal cool, and then do the dent pulling. To shrink an “oilcan” or low spot on the surface, apply heat with the shrinking tip.  Depress the trigger for ½ second while using a spiral motion, starting on the outside of the low spot moving towards the center.  Next apply a cold compress to shrink the steel back.  To remove a “high spot” on the surface, place tip directly on the top of the spot and heat for ½ second.  If heat does not totally remove the high spot, hammer gently while still warm. For safety, be sure to read your stud welder manual.

This is an electric stud welding gun.

This tool is used to weld a small steel pin (or stud) to a dent in a steel body panel. Then a special pull-hammer is used to hammer the stud outward.

 

These studs are about 1½ inches long. 

To begin, the stud is inserted into the end of the gun.

The outer copper ring is negative and the center copper nipple is positively charged. When the trigger is pulled these metal parts are energized.

Of course, this tool needs to be pushed up against the bare steel for anything to happen.

To use the stud gun, the tip is pressed against the bare steel. When the trigger is squeezed, electric current flows through the tip and fuses the stud to the car body.

The dented area needs to be bare metal... all the paint must be removed around the stud location. The bare metal spot needs to be at least the size of a quarter, perhaps bigger.

Once the stud is attached to the car body, the stud welder gun is pulled away, leaving the metal rod attached to the car.

Some dents can benefit from multiple studs. It's best to install all of the desired studs, let the metal cool, and then do the dent pulling. Since this dent was a long skinny crease about 4 inches long, 4 studs were attached, about an inch apart.

After all the dent pulling is done, cut off the studs with a pair of wire cutters and then use a grinder to grind down the remaining bit of steel.

 steel.

Finishing Touches:

Once the dent had been pounded outward, apply a thin coating of plastic filler (a.k.a. Bondo).
When the filler is hard sand the area smooth and level, then prime and paint the entire area that needs to be repaired.

How to use Epoxy Primer

-TECH TIPS-

 

Step-By-Step – Back to Basics

Why Use Epoxy?  Epoxy is used first as it has excellent adhesion and corrosion resistance.  The epoxy blankets the metal, which does not allow any oxygen to reach the metal.  Epoxy also adheres (sticks) good to the metal or other substrate and top coats adhere good to the epoxy.  Therefore, epoxy is a good choice to use on repair areas where there is exposed metal or body filler.
What Epoxy Is Not:  Epoxy does not have high build or fill imperfections well.  Therefore, epoxy is not designed to be applied and block sanded.  If there are still scratches or areas where body filler was applied, you really need to apply primer surfacer on top of the epoxy primer.

1. Wipe the repair area clean with wax and grease remover.

2. Clean with tack cloth.

3. Mix Epoxy Primer – Remember that you may need to wait an induction time before using. Read your tech sheet for the product.

4. Spray 1 – 2 coats onto repair area.

5. Allow To Flash (dry) for 15 minutes between coats, longer for cooler weather.

6. Allow to flash for 30 minutes before spraying primer surfacer, again, check the tech sheet.

7. Clean Primer Gun and Mix 2K Primer Surfacer.

Now the repair area has epoxy primer applied, now you’re ready to mix and apply primer surfacer.  Note:  You do not sand epoxy primer before applying primer surfacer.  However, usually, primer surfacer must be applied within a certain time, check your products tech sheet.

 

Josiah's '81 Chevy Short Hugger Orange, Fred's Red with Spray Max

Customer Pics

Thanks to all our customers that have been sending in pictures of their projects.

  

Josiah-81 Chevy Short in Hugger Orange  - Beautiful!

Fred's Red - GM Bright Red

Fred did this fantastic job with the Spray Max aerosols. SPM-1k, Spray Max Glamour Clearcoat and Spray Max Epoxy Rust Cure Primer.

New Item - Pliogrip Panel 60 Adhesive Panel Repair

We are proud to announce a new vendor on our roster of high quality products, Pliogrip by Valvoline. PLIOGRIP® by Valvoline is a complete body repair and bonding system specifically engineered for the body shop to provide better workability, reduced repair times and superior structural strength.

When it comes to returning a vehicle to its pre-accident condition, PLIOGRIP by Valvoline offers a wide range of products for both automotive and heavy duty truck repair.  Their Panel 60 adhesive is a versatile panel bonding adhesive that can be used for bonding bare metal on quarter panels, roof panels, rear body panels and door skins.  It is backed by a lifetime structural and corrosion warranty and also has a two-year shelf life.  Panel 60 was also recently recognized by General Motors Corporation to meet the aftermarket metal bonding specifications guidelines (GM6449G).  You can use the Pliogrip by Valvoline products with confidence for strength and durability.

 

Tech Tip: Staining/Bleed Through (discoloration) of paint surface.

●TECH TIPS●

Staining/Bleed-Through (discoloration)

Cause:  A) Using too much or too little hardener in the putty or body filler.

             B) Insufficient mixing of putty or filler components

             C) Applying a surfacer, sealer and/or topcoat before putty/filler has thoroughly cured.

             D) Clearcoating a white or light color without using a stain-free body filler (RAGE Gold).

Repair:  1) Allow topcoat to thoroughly cure.

              2) Sand affected area, isolate with two-component undercoats and refinish.

Prevention:  A) Use correct amount of body filler hardener

                    B) Mix components thoroughly.

                    C) Allow putty or filler to cure thoroughly before topcoating.

  D) Apply undercoats and/or topcoats in medium-wet to wet coats; allowing proper flash  time between coats.

                    E) Use non-staining body fillers (RAGE Gold), especially when clearcoating light colors.

                    F) Isolate suspected staining filler by applying a two-component surfacer and sealer.

                        Allow to cure, following product recommendations, then apply desired topcoat.

For all your automotive paint and body shop supplies:  66 Auto Color

Newsletter July 2011

Summer Blaze Days
It is blazing hot here, but from my side of the fence, it is better than freezing cold. We have some "hot" items, I would like to bring to your attention.  Keep them in mind for your upcoming projects.

A popular item lately are the Hot Rod Flats.  One of our customers used our 66 Classic Flat paint in hugger orange.  He said it turned out great, hoping to see some pictures soon.  For those of you wanting to stay with a classic Hot Rod Black, we have the Vintage Hot Rod Flat Black and the Vintage Hot Rod Satin Black.  Both have a great finish with the same durability as a urethane single-stage automotive paint.  Keep in mind, when using flat colors that there is a lot of flattener additive in the product, approximately half flattener to half toner colors, so the color might not cover as much as a normal paint.  You may need to buy extra automotive paint to finish the job.  Vintage Hot Rod Black  

Also, the technique for spraying flats or satins is crucial.  Spray the first coat wet, allowing appropriate flash time between coats depending on the substrate temperature (see product tech sheet for details).  The second and third coat, spray medium coats.  Very important, the flat additive separates and settles, shake well before spraying and intermittently during spraying.

Those of you who have a Hot Rod Flat or Satin Finish know how hard it is to find a product to clean, remove road grime, and oily residue without giving it a shine. Wizards Products has come out with a product called "Wipe Down." That does the job at a reasonable price $10.95 for a 22 oz. spray bottle.  Use a multi-fiber cloth to prevent streaks and lint.

Wizards Wipe Down

Check our e-store for all your painting needs 66 Auto Color

Independence Day Holiday Hours

●INDEPENDENCE DAY HOLIDAY HOURS●

We will be closed for vacation July 2, 3, 4^th.

Reopening on Tuesday, July 5.

Tech Tip: Solvent Pop

●TECH TIPS●

Summer brings its own set of pleasures and problems.  The hot days are great for going to the lake, but not so great when refinishing a car.  One of the most common problems we see in the summer is solvent pop, small air bubbles or craters caused by the solvent rising to the top of the finish. Solvent pop is from the solvents being trapped below the surface of the top coat.  The solvent becomes trapped under the surface film (primer, sealer, paint) and then rises to the top as it tries to escape. This is due to one of the following situations:

1. Using incorrect reducer or hardener for air or substrate temperature, which causes a film on the surface of the primer, sealer, or paint making it appear ready for another coat.
2. Applying product too heavy.
3. Not giving enough flash time between coats.
4. Putting a freshly painted vehicle directly into the sunlight.

Prevention: Allow the solvents to escape the product:

1. Choose a reducer or hardener within the proper temperature range, slow to very slow for temperatures 80⁰ + This will allow the surface of the primer, sealers, paint, etc. to stay open long enough to allow the solvents to escape.
2. Do not apply sealers, primers, paint too heavy.

Allow enough flash time between coats, be sure to read your technical data sheets for each product. For example Matrix paints instructs:  Each coat of basecoat applied requires an additional 10 minutes flash time between coats before clear coating. So, four coats of base would require an additional 40 minutes before clear coating.

Visit our store for all your body shop supplies:  66 Auto Color

Joplin Tornado

For our customers who have been asking about us, we are okay and our store is okay, by the grace of God, I don't know why.

Just a few blocks from our store it is complete devastation. The town of Joplin is unrecognizable.  We actually live in Diamond, MO, which is about 10 miles east, so our house is fine and we have electricty here. It will be a long clean up process and we will do what we can to help. Right now only emergency people are allowed in that area.

We are very concerned about some of our local customers. We haven't been able to contact them, since information and phone service is spotty.
Thanks again,
Pat & Randy Garrison

Spray Max Review - 2001 Harley Super Glide

Sorry so slow in providing feedback but wanted to share how pleased I was with the SprayMax products. I repainted my 2001 Harley Super Glide last fall. Used the SprayMax Glamour 2K Clear over a 1K base of GM's Sunburst Orange Metallic II. I wet-sanded and polished the final coat of clear and this thing looked like glass! I couldn't have been more pleased.

I'll soon be ordering more of the same to repaint my 1981 Honda Goldwing.

Many thanks for your exemplary service and quality products.

Scott D.

 Apache Junction, AZ

(Scott used three of the Spray Max 1K aerosols and three of the SPM-3680061 Glamour High Gloss Clear Coat.)  For all our Spray Max products visit our e-store at 66 Auto Color

Motorcycle painted with Spray Max

This is what Fred M. had to say about the SprayMax paint, Epoxy, and Glamour Clear aerosols. He did a great custom job on his motorcycle.:

I've had great success with your SprayMax 2K primer, paint and clear coat on my bike and have decided to do my other ride (Kawasaki Nomad) in bright red . .

Spray Max Customer Golf Cart Project

Here is what one of our customers had to say about the Spray Max Aerosols. Marty sent some pictures of his completed project:

I found 66 Auto Color on the internet. I originally was going to do a wrap on my 1996 golf cart but thought I would take a shot at painting this. I have not painted a car in 40 years and then I had professional tools and a spray booth. I used Spray Max 2K Primer and a Stellar Marron base coat with the 2K Clear coat. This was so easy to use and came out better than I expected. I highly recommend these products and their staff. Pat and the entire staff here assisted me all the way through the process. They are truly customer service professionals.

THANK YOU<
- Marty H
Streamwood, IL

Detailing: Car Buffing

Car Buffing Techniques

1)      Paint preparation is vital. Proper paint preparation makes the process smoother with a better end result. Give the car a good wash and prep the surface with a clay preparation bar.  There are several kinds available. This will minimize or remove protrusions on the paint surface such as environmental contaminates like dust specks.

2)      Proper buffing techniques are a must. In short, work buffer right to left over bead of polish and/or compound. Start slightly on edge and then finish flat. Working smaller areas keep your pace uniform and in “rhythm.” With increased practice, proficiency increases. Keep the RPMs on the slow side.

3)      Let the weight of the buffer do most of the work. Don’t wear yourself out. Work with the buffer, not against it. Keep the buffer in motion to avoid burning the paint. You will get a feel for how the buffer wants to move in time.

4)      Work the car from right to left (right handed) and don’t turn the buffer upside down, the cord will get wrapped in the buffer spindle if you do.

5)      Watch for pad grabbers like antennas, windshield wipers and emblems. The cautious approach is the best approach, mask or remove where possible. Have you ever seen a windshield wiper fly?

6)      Avoid or mask rubberized body side moldings, you can burn or stain them.

Avoid edges by masking or working parallel with the buffer wheel. Work close but not over unless you have a good touch. If you are a beginner, don’t lock the variable trigger, this will allow you to slow down at any time.


Remember to check out our website for more automotive body shop supplies and paint.  66 Auto Color for Wizards Detailing Products

Detailing: Minimizing Swirl Marks

Minimizing Swirl Marks

1)      Minimize swirl by maintaining clean buffing pads. Use a cleaning spur on wool pads frequently, wash and air dry occasionally.

2)      Soak foam pads in warm water and ring dry. Never put in dryer.

3)      Cross contamination is another leading cause of swirl. Keep compound pads separate from polishing and finishing pads.

4)      Match the right buffing pad to the right polishing material. We know not all paint surfaces are the same, save time by spot buffing a small area then check results. We have many pad compositions, start with the least aggressive and work up as needed. Utilize this same principle when selecting the compound or polish.

5)      Lower RPM’s means less friction, less friction means less heat buildup. Try to stay between 1750-2400 RPM when compounding and between 1200-1750 RPM when finishing.

6)      After using compound wash the treated area with soap and water to eliminate excess compound grit.  When finishing with a polish or glaze, don’t buff dry. Leave a little material on the car, without it you create friction. A final hand or orbital wax will clean up any polish residue. A quality product such as Wizards Polishing Products will minimize swirl marks.

Remember to check out our website for more automotive body shop supplies and paint.  66 Auto Color

National Street Rod Association

National Street Rod Association is May 27-29, 2011 in Springfield, Missouri. 66 Auto Color will be entering their '34 Chevy 5 Window Master Coupe.  We  hope to see you there.  National Street Rod Association holds events all over the country. View their website under the tab "Events" to find one close to you.  Get entered - Get involved - Have some Fun!

Remember to check out our website for all your automotive paint, body shop supplies, and detailing supplies:
66 Auto Color

Vintage Rods - 38th Rod Run

Upcoming Events

Nothing says summer like hot days and hot rods.  Vintage Rods-38^th Rod Run is one car show you may want to participate in. The Rod Run takes place on May 21 in Carthage, Missouri, averaging 100 entrants.   It includes drawings for goodie bags (66 Auto Color is giving away two goodie bags with some great Wizards Products), 50/50 pot, grand prize, games, 25 trophies and more great fun. $10 pre-registration or $15 day of Run. Contact Crystal Jones at 417-850-0622 for more information.

**For all your automotive paint and body shop supplies visit our store at: 66 Auto Color

COMPLIANCE OUT OF THE BOOTH

COMPLIANCE OUT OF THE BOOTH

If the EPA drops by your shop will they find you in compliance or will you be looking at a fine?  The EPA only allows you to use a 3 oz. cup or smaller on your paint gun anytime you are spraying a catalyzed product outside of the booth.  However, you may use aerosols of any size.  SprayMax a USC product offers a catalyzed 2K primer that has proven to be an excellent product.  It comes in a beige epoxy primer or a grey Rapid quick-drying primer.  Once catalyzed the epoxy cans are usable for 4 days and the Rapid primer for 24 hours.  No more wasting product you don’t use and, since there is no clean up, it saves time and money.

$18.99 to $19.29

For all your automotive paint and body shop supplies visit our store at: 66 Auto Color